Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Chiang Mai Love

So here we are in Chiang Mai.
There's many reasons it's glorious here:
  • Much less traffic and a slightly slower pace of life. Reminds us of Boulder and Cuzco, Peru.
  • Much more vegetarian food!
  • We were walking down the street from our hotel the first night and were wondering if we were going to find a veggie spot. The second Dave said it, there was a huge VEGETARIAN FOOD sign that just popped out of no where. Amazing. Dave ate some mushroom seitan grilled in a banana leaf. That made him very happy.
    • The food is super creative, as it's inspired by more than just Thai and Chinese here. There's a large Burmese influence that really adds some excellent tastes.
    • Our favorite places, so far:
      • Khun Churn - unbelievably veggie buffet for $4 per person. Huge salad bar, unlimited unsweetened iced tea and amazing curries and noodle dishes. So good.
      • iBerry. Boutique ice cream shop with local flavors - durian (yucky smell, great taste!), black sesame, mango, etc. Could have been in Brooklyn or Portland. So cool.
      • Whole Earth. Fancy veggie restaurant. A bit pricy, but delicious.
      • Salad Concept. Again, should be in NY. Huge salad with 5 toppings for $2.
      • Veggie Stall. One of our few attempts at street food. All veggie. So yummy. $1 per dish.
      • Freedom House. Great non-profit org, working with Burmese Refugees. Delicious and unusual salads and brown rice!
  • Much more NGO, entrepreneurial, and environmental spirit here
    • We've found several excellent spots that support refugee camps, shelters, and other great causes through their work. It's nice to be able to eat at their spots and support them.
    • The owner of our first guesthouse (The Dozy House), just started her place up 3 months ago. She's a really driven lady and has produced a great guest house. Huge fans!
    • A no-foam policy at the Saturday night market...only compostable containers allowed (ie banana leaves!).
  • Shopping!
    • It's no secret that Elli enjoys a good boutique and resale shop. Chiang Mai has many fantastic options and cool streets to walk around. Not as many malls here as in Bangkok, so it's much more enjoyable.
  • Weather
    • It's way cooler in Chiang Mai than in Bangkok. Enough said.
  • Much more nature here
    • There are actually TREES in Chiang Mai
    • And gardens (Dave's hospital has a whole garden outside of it)
    • And flowers! (see royal flora post)
  • Much more "religion in action" here
    • The wats here are very active centers of learning and prayer. We've had the opportunity to watch monks studying, chanting ceremonies, and much more.
    • The monks here are bustling about....that's not to say that this didn't happen in Bangkok, but it's much easier to see in action here in Chiang Mai

There's only a few reasons it's not so glorious here:
  • "Haze"
    • So the Bangkok Post warned us of a "haze" that has descended on Chiang Mai.
    • The Thai equivalent of the EPA called it "unharmful" and most probably an "extra ozone layer."
    • This is all BS: it's of course harmful, and whether it's ozone or just particulate matter, it's no good. The real fact is that's probably been so long since a rainstorm that all the pollution has simply built up.
    • The selfish bottom-line: all the typical places where there's beautiful views have absolutely zero view right now. Meh. We have imaginations.
  • Transport
    • Bangkok has an amazing public transit system and taxis are on a cheap meter system (if you can get a driver who will use the meter!). Chiang Mai has a different, and more challenging for the tourist system. There are crazy red trucks (former pickup trucks) that you flag down, and tell them where you're going. They're small public busses, but the driver decides where they're off to. Hopefully one is going your way and for 66 cents you're off. The old city is very walkable (2k to each side), but we live about 45 min (walking) away. Many people rent bikes and just about everyone drives a motorbike.
  • And finally: Don't bring your durian (or your dog) in the hotel, please!

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Thanks so much for commenting on our travels! We can't wait to see you when we're home!